Molokai is a mystery to the tourist. Quiet (besides the cackling, crowing roosters who make noise morning and night) and lovely this island had us stymied for a minute. The locals are very welcoming, and even on the plane ride here we met a lovely woman who gave us some suggestions on where to hike. She also warned us that the Molokai doesn't have very many "good beaches". We quickly found out what she meant since the beach we are currently camped at (one ali'i) is murky and slimy on the bottom, the mud easily stirred up to cloud the waters. However, we can see the ancient Hawaiian fishpond and at low tide the fish hop to catch their dinners. The moon setting was a an amazing firey sight (but no phone pictures, alas). So waking to the dawn with a new midset washed clean of expectations, we set out to find Molokai. After breakfast of course! Local apple bananas sliced onto our greek yogurt and granola with a chaser of mac nuts. A perfect way to start the day. We ventured over to the old sugar mill and put the guide Mike on the spot with answering all our questions about what to see and do on the island. After our visit we drove the 5 minutes that would take us to the parking lot leading to the viewing area of Kalaupapa the peninsula where patients with Hansen's Diseases were banished (before there was a cure), but first we hiked over to a sacred Hawaiian rock. After a lunch of leftovers we stopped for local ice cream, the special was two flavors for the price of one. We chose toasted coconut and caramel mac nut. The Tea Time desire for the ice cream sandwich still stands, so we also bought moist sugar cookies. (We still need to find our shave ice and fresh coconuts!) Then we booked hike for tomorrow morning. Molokai Burger was next on the list... for dinner tonight and lunch tomorrow. Dinner is pulled pork with coleslaw from Molokai Burger. They also have a Ramen burger, so we'll be back to try that item. We ate dinner all fresco at the campsite, with a side of hula entertainment. There is a local seminar happening on Wednesday, but it sounds a bit pricey so we need to research further. The local newspaper is also a wealth of information that we plan to take advantage of during our trip. Molokai is slowing entrancing us with the friendly locals and beautiful scenery. Our evenings entertainment at the campsite was a local hula group practicing for a performance this weekend! This island may not have a snorkel beach around the corner, but we are adjusting our mindsets and embracing the rain that falls here daily. Slow down, you're in Molokai.